Tommy Caldwell

Tommy Caldwell is a master climber. Accomplished in sport, traditional, big wall first ascents, and speed records, there is nothing he can’t do. He is internationally recognized for completing the first-ever free climb of the Dawn Wall, a monumental achievement that has been widely celebrated through Tommy’s films, speaking engagements, and writing.

Born and raised in Colorado’s mountain culture, Tommy climbed his first peak at the age of three. From an early age, he was taught by his father – a bodybuilding mountain guide – to embrace fear and transform it into inspiration. 

Fear and inspiration are central pillars of what makes Tommy, Tommy. In 2000, 20-year-old Tommy and three fellow climbers embarked on an expedition through the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. There, they were taken hostage, resulting in what would become the fight – and the climb – of a lifetime. After surviving for six days with little food and water, Tommy and the group narrowly escaped, running ten miles to the nearest military outpost. 

Shortly after Kyrgyzstan, Tommy faced a daunting new challenge when a table saw accident resulted in the loss of his index finger. Once again, the athlete had a choice: to push forward or to accept defeat. He persevered. 

In 2003, Tommy completed the first ascent of Flex Luthor, (the only proposed 15a on U.S. soil), an accomplishment that would not be repeated for another 20 years. In 2004, Tommy made the third and fourth free ascents of El Capitan’s The Nose. El Cap would quickly become the defining mountain of Caldwell’s career. Most notably, in 2015, Tommy and his climbing partner Kevin Jorgeson completed the first-ever free climb of The Dawn Wall. The 19-day ascent received worldwide praise and attention (over 34 billion media impressions), including recognition from President Barack Obama. The journey was chronicled in the documentary The Dawn Wall and in Tommy’s 2017 memoir The Push: A Climber’s Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going Beyond Limits. 

In 2024, Tommy and fellow climber Alex Honnold reunited to achieve a groundbreaking feat by completing the first-ever single-day traverse of all five peaks of Alaska’s formidable “Devil’s Thumb.” Their epic journey, which began with a 2,600-mile bike ride to the mountain’s base, is chronicled in the documentary The Devil’s Climb.

Tommy’s achievements have been recognized far and wide. He was the 2014 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year and a finalist for the 2017 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. Beyond climbing, advocacy is a central part of Tommy’s work. He has spoken to Congress and testified for the Senate in support of several pieces of climate legislation. Tommy fights for the world and the people he believes in in everything he does.

In 2015, National Geographic dubbed Tommy “arguably the best all-around rock climber on the planet.” He continues to prove them right.